Infinity Scarf – a multi-version pattern to suit all knitters

Designed by Vikki Haffenden, author of Translating Between Hand and Machine Knitting and The Knitting Book.

photo of model wearing the infinity scarf
The Infinity Scarf – just what you need to stay warm and cosy this winter

This page has additional information and video tutorials to support you whilst knitting the Infinity Scarf pattern published in the Chard Flyer, Autumn 2020 Edition.

I hope you enjoy knitting the scarf and take pleasure in wearing it, or giving it as a gift to some lucky person.

I love infinity scarves because there are no trailing ends to catch in things or come undone and let the cold in. This one loops twice around the neck and is knitted in 100% wool, so is perfect for keeping warm. As we are all likely to want to be outside more this winter due to the pandemic and social distancing, this scarf will make an attractive but practical additon to your winter wardrobe.

The pattern has been designed using Knoll Kilcarra Tweed yarn, which is an Aran-type yarn. Kilcarra Tweed has a recommended stitch gauge of 16 stitches and 25 rows in a 10 cm (4 inch) square of stocking stitch knitted on 4.5mm-5.5mm needles, and the length-to weight measurement is 80 metres of yarn in one 50 gram ball. It is currently stocked by The Lace Knittery in Illminster (and on their website), and is available online at The Knitting Shed, and Purl & Jane and other outlets.

Please note I have not connection with these retailers. Like you, I use the internet to find suppliers!



But I don’t want to use 100% wool!

Thats not a huge problem. You should be able to substitute with a yarn that has the same stitch count and length-to-weight measurement, (see above). You will find this information on the ball band. Matching the length-to-weight measurement is important and ensures that you purchase the correct amount of yarn for the project. Experienced knitters will likely be able to ‘tweak’ their stitch count by changing needle size. The row count doesn’t matter for this pattern, as you can measure the piece as it grows. Having said all that, be aware that substitution is not an exact science, so sampling with the alternative yarn is always necessary.

If substituting yarn for this pattern, try to find one with some wool content because wool retains warmth but prevents you overheating. Yarnsub has a few suggestions, but unfortunately most are not available in the UK.

You will find lots more information about substituting yarn in my book Translating Between Hand and Machine Knitting.

Please note that Kilcarra Tweed yarn is hand wash only. If you steam block the finished piece it will encourage the fibre to open up, (see my video further down the page about how to block knitting). However, hand-washing will really get the fibre to ‘bloom’ and fill-out the stitches nicely. Just be gentle, use wool wash liquid, and dry it flat, (no tumble drying!).

I’ve said that the project is ideal for knitting ‘on the go’, and this is particularly true if working version A, in-the-round, on a circular needle. The advantage to using a circular needle, whether working in-the-round or back and forth, is that the weight of the knitting is held on the cable and rests in your lap so that you don’t have to support the weight with your arms. This relieves strain and reduces tension in your shoulders and wrists. I’ve designed this pattern on circular needles as it is much more comfortable to rest the weight of the knitting in your lap on the cable than to take the strain on your arms.

Most of the techniques used in the pattern can be found explained in detail with step-by-step photos in The Knitting Book and Twisted German Cast on, Joinng the Round in Circular Knitting, Seed stitch, Jeny’s Stretch Bind off and Blocking knitting are featured below.


Casting on

Working the Twisted German/Twisted Double cast on

Joining the round in circular knitting

Joining the cast on into a round

Working seed stitch

Working the main stitch pattern: seed stitch

Working Jeny’s Stretchy Cast on

Working Jeny’s surprisingly stretchy bind off. You work both knit and purl stitches in this way – all the way round, if you want a ‘corrugated’ edge to a rib, then work the purl bind offs with a reverse purl stitch yarn over.

Blocking knitting

This shows wool yarn being blocked with steam. If your yarn has more than 20% synthetic fibres, don’t use a steam iron. Instead, lightly spray the pinned knitting with water and leave to dry overnight.

If you are visiting the page via the Chard Flyer, would you be kind enough to add a comment to the page to let me know?

Thank you

Vikki