Errata to patterns

(Also see:

These corrections are listed separately as posts, but I have consolidated them here as well.

Although I was not responsible for writing these patterns, I hope these corrections may help people who come across problems. Please to remember that those wonderful designers and pattern checkers are not infallible. It’s all in the numbers…

The Knitting Book, corrections

Correction to the Cable Hat pattern, p280, The Knitting Book

N.B. The hat is knitted on a circular needle.
Pattern Rounds 1-6. This is a correction to the pattern at Pattern Rounds 1-6. After working this correction, work the travelling cable repeat for the remainder of the hat.
Figure 1– Knit stitch image
Figure 2 – Knitting chart – read from R-L all rows as knitted in the round

Cable Hat , The Knitting Book p.280

Knitted on circular needle








Knitting instruction





CR4L – shown on chart as this symbol

and worked across 4 sts as instructed

Slip next 2 stitches onto cable needle, hold at front, P2, then K2 from cable needle.

Mark the start of the round clearly before commencing the cable pattern. These 6 rows make the travelling-cable pattern repeat.

Pattern Round1:

(K2, P4) 16 times.

Pattern Round 2:

(CR4L, P2) 16 times.

Pattern Round 3:

P2, (K2, P4) 15 times, K2, P2 at end

Pattern Round 4:

(P2, CR4L) 16 times.

Pattern Round 5:

(P4, K2) 16 times.

Pattern Round 6:

K2 from cable needle, P2, (CR4L, P2) 15 times, P2 slip next 2 stitches onto cable needle, hold at front.

Correction to ‘Felted Tote Bag’ in The Knitting Book, p 350-351.

Corrections in bold and italics.

Cast on 50sts.
Starting with a k row, and working in st st, inc at both eds on 5th row. Work 10rows without shaping. (52sts).
Row 16 (WS): Inc in first st. p15, cast off 20sts. p15 inc in last st. (54sts)
Carry on as pattern is printed.

Double decreases, sk2,k1,p2sso, p141

‘Top stitch in decrease slants right’ – The line from this sentence should point to the stitch in the row below the one that is currently being worked.

I-cord button loop, p155

Step 1. Leave a tail of yarn four times the selvedge length. Using a circular needle and the yarn tail, pick up the selvedge (right side facing). Return to the starting end of the needle and cast on three stitches using a cable cast-on.

Plain colour domino squares, p163

(These are not corrections, but are helpful introductory sentences to each of the first two Steps)
Step 1. This technique works central decreases in garter stitch, as shown here…
Step 2. Knitting is shown with WS facing, after completion of the first, non-decreasing row. Turn work…

Baby’s cardigan, p318

(The stitch count is incorrectly stated – red numbers signify corrected stitch count)
The first piece worked is the BACK.
Work as pattern until SHAPE ARMS.
Then work as follows:
Cast on 36sts, k to end (134sts)
Continue in garter stitch as set for a further 32 rows.
Next row: k57 and turn, leaving rem 77sts on a stitch holder.
Work rows as instructed – correct stitch counts are as follows:
Row 1: (56sts)
Row 2 (RS): (55sts)
Row 3: (54sts)
Inc row (WS): (61sts)
Next row: (68sts)
Then work corrected pattern as follows:
Place buttonhole: k to last 5sts, cast off 3sts, k1.
Next row: k2, cast off 3sts, k to end.
K2 rows.
Shape underarm (RS): Cast off 36sts, k to end.
Row 1 (WS): k5, p to end.
Row 2: k to end.
Last 2 rows set st st with g st border.
Rep last 2 rows until work measures 16cm (6 ¼ in) from underarm, ending with a RS row.
K3 rows, cast off.
With RS facing, rejoin the yarn to rem sts.
Cast off next 20sts, k to end. (57sts)
Row 1 (WS): k to last 3sts, k2tog, k1. (56sts)
Row 2(RS):k1, skpo, k to end. (55sts)
Row 3(WS): as row 1. (54sts)
K12 rows without shaping, ending with a WS row.
Inc row (RS): k1, m1, k to end. (55sts)
K2 rows without shaping.
Cont increasing at neck edge as set by inc row on next and foll 3 alt rows, then at neck edge of foll 2 rows. (61sts)
Next row (WS): k.
Next row (RS): Cast on and k7, k to end. (68sts)
K 2 rows.
Place buttonhole: k to last 5 sts, cast off 3 sts, k1.
Next row: k2, cast on 3sts, k to end.
Shape underarm (WS): cast off 36sts, k to end.
Row 1 (RS): k to end.
Row 2 (WS): p to last 5 sts, k5.
Rep last 2 rows until work measures 16cm (6 ¼”) from underarm, ending with a RS row.
K3 rows, cast off.
Make up as instructed.

Baby’s blanket, p323

Row 1: [k1,p1] twice, k4, *p1,k7, rep from* to last 9sts, p1, k4, [p1,k1] twice.
Rows 2 & 8: [k1,p1] twice, p3,*k1, p1,k1, p5, rep from * to last 10sts, k1, p1,k1, p3, [p1, k1] twice.
Rows 3& 7: [k1,p1] twice, k2, *p1,k3, rep from * to last 7sts, p1, k2, [p1,k1] twice.
Rows 4 & 6: [k1, p1] twice, p1, *k1, p5,k1,p1, rep from * to last 4 sts, [p1, k1] twice.
Row 5: [k1, p1], twice, *p1, k7, rep from * to last 5 sts, p1, [p1,k1] twice.
Rept rows 1-8 until work measures 84cm from cast on edge, ending with row 8.
Top edging
Moss stitch: [k1, p1] to last st, k1.
This row forms moss stitch, repeat this row x 5.
Cast off in pattern.

Corrections and helpful addendum for Baby and Toddler Knits Made Easy

Baby Jacket, p33

This pattern is a little confusing. You knit the jacket in one piece up to the armholes, then at Divide for armholes, you divide the stitches into front, back and front panels whilst knitting a row. In this row, you knit Right front width, then put onto a stitch holder, cast off sts for the armhole, then knit Back width and put onto a stitch holder, cast off stitches for the other armhole and then knit the second front stitches to the end.
Left front seems pretty straightforward.
But it is at Right front, where the instruction is to ‘reverse the shapings’, that a little help may be needed.
It is not clear, but you have to go back to the start of Left front, and join in the yarn at the armhole edge (otherwise you have to sew the end in on the front edge which would be messy) and work straight rows as for Left front, until it measures 23 (25:28) cm from cast on row, finishing the last row at the front edge before starting to shape the Right neck (this will finish on an odd row, whereas Left front finished on an even row). That way you are in the right place to work the shapings as instructed in the pattern at Shape neck, starting with ‘Cast off 6sts at beg of next row…’ If there is an extra row in one front, I don’t think it will be a problem.
If however, you are determined to have an equal number of rows in each front, work the same number of rows in each front to the neck shaping, which will mean you finish at the armhole edge on the Right front. The k1r to take you back to the front edge and work the shapings as instructed after that.

Cosy Hoodie p54-57

The obvious anomaly, which should have been corrected by the publisher as I included this in my final corrections, is on P57 – in the instructions for the Sleeves. The cuff and hem instruction is for Reverse Stocking stitch, not Garter stitch as the caption on the image says. My preference however would be to work them in garter stitch – they would lie much flatter, look nicer and be firmer.
The hood is knitted as a continuation of the front, and has an edge of Garter stitch that is integrally knitted as you work the hood. This edging is started at Divide for front opening, where the ‘p6’ in the middle of the row sets the pattern for the 2x 3sts of the edging. You also start to shape the hood inside these edge stitches with the M1 instruction.
P54 The instructions for completing the second side of the front have been included in the first Shape shoulder instruction so are not obvious. The stitches for the second side front are the ones left on the needle in Divide for front opening after the instruction to:
Rep the last 2 rows once more.
Next row: k24 (26:28:30), M1, p3, turn and work on theses sts for the first side of front.
Then the instruction for the second front continues after ‘Leave these sts on a spare needle’, in the middle of the first Shape shoulder instructions. This is where you join in yarn and work the second side front.
P57 The first instruction in Hood, is to continue the 3st garter stitch edge, increase across the row to make more stitches with which to knit the hood so it fits around the back of the head, and cast on a group of sts that will form the back of the hood. The 3 edge stitches are always worked in purl to achieve the garter stitch edge. When finished, the hood is eased and stitched into the back neck, and folded and sewn together along the top seam from front to back.

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