Tag: knit

Reviewing the Caydo Automatic I-cord Machine

On By vikkihaffendenIn Knitted textiles, knitting, knitting machine, Machine knitting, making, Textiles, UncategorizedLeave a comment

Hands up who doesn’t like icord? It’s an extremely versatile little tube that has many uses, amongst which is as a trimming or tie cord, or standalone as a thick yarn. Reach back to your childhood memories and you might have used a ‘Knitting Nancy’, or even a cotton reel with nails driven into the top to knit i-cord. You can hand knit i-cord with double pointed needles or even on two straights, with a bit of slipping and reverse knitting.

To my joy you can also knit it on a bed domestic knitting machine. On a double bed machine, or a single bed with a ribber attached, on each bed you cast on half the number of stitches that you wish to have around the i-cord, (for example, two needles on each bed will create a four stitch i-cord), then set one bed to slip and one bed to knit. This creates a tube of circular knitting. When using just a single bed, this is also an easy setting. Cast on four stitches, set your carriage to slip in one direction, and off you go. The slip pulls the yarn around from the last stitch directly back to the first needle and then you knit all four stitches again. After which the yarn goes back to the first needle again, and it makes a very nice little tube.

I have knitted i-cord by hand and on my knitting machine for many years, and at one point I purchased a hand-cranked, four needle circular i-cord machine, (I think it was a Prym?) which meant I could knit yardage very simply without blocking the use of my main knitting machine. I found the design to be quite awkward to use, so a bit later on I purchased another model, (it might have been Clover, but I think it was a French make). This is a much better designed piece of equipment, it fits well in the hand and is far more cheerful to look at because it is bright yellow and purple. The big plus is that any of these machines produce a consistently even i-cord. However, althouigh its faster than hand knitting, it still requires hand cranking.

Apart from these little i-cord machines I also have a plastic, twenty-two needle Addi circular machine. The Addi clearly knits a bigger tube that the little four-needle machines, but it works on the same principle with a revolving cylinder of vertical needles into which the yarn is fed through a statioary feeder. This means that the knitting coming out of the bottom of the machine turns with the cylinder of needles and can (and will) tangle.

The drawback with all these circular knitting machines described so far is that the knitting hangs down in the center of the cylinder and requires considerable weighting to make sure the stitches clear off the needles. Once the weights reaches the floor they stopped doing their job and unless rehung further up towards the cylinder, the stitches will miss-knit. If the knitted tube is turning at the same time as the weights descend, there is clearly far more potential for disaster to happen as the weight swings and the knitting twists. That is why the four needle i-cord machines and the Addi are my least favorite to use.

My pride and joy is a vintage, and very heavy, solid metal, circular sock machine. Although this still requires weights and they are very heavy weights, this knits in a slightly different way, with the feeder revolving around a stationary cylinder of vertical needles. This means that the knitting hangs straight down and does not twist as it is made. The advantage of this is that you only have to keep an eye on the weight, and do not have to untangle the knitted tube every so often.

Whilst working in industry, and at the University where I taught, I worked with what are called ‘strapping’ or ‘cording’ machines. The ones in use were small cylinder circular machines and fine gauge, so had tiny needle hooks and required thin yarns. These operated on the same principle as the CSM, but instead of weights, the cord winds onto a vertical frame which is synchronised to revolve at the pace necessary to keep tension on the cord as it descends towards the frame. This automates the process; the only human interaction is to change yarns and swap full frames out for empty ones. I suspect that the latest models will be almost totally automated with automatic yarn splicing.

Which brings me to the purpose of this post. At last! Because of the problems already discussed I was interested to try out the Caydo Automatic I-cord Machine. On close inspection, Caydo seemed to have addressed the problem of the knitting twisting by adopting the idea of a static needle cylinder and a revolving feeder, and overcome the weighting by laying the machine on its side and adding rotating cogs to tension the completed i-cord. I was intrigued as to whether this machine would prove to be as good as it looked in the adverts.

My verdict is that overall I really like this machine

I love gadgets, and this looked like a great gadget with thoughtful design which suggested to me an improved user experience and a positive practical outcome. Caydo kindly provided me with a machine to test and review, so that is where we are now. My video review is quite long, but I wanted to share the unpacking and assembly, (minimal) as well as explore the knitting process. My verdict is that overall I really like this machine.

It doesn’t like fancy yarns, but thats not uncommon

The machine won’t knit well with fancy yarns, and works with a limited range of yarn weights, but that is true of all domestic knitting machines. I met a lady the other day, and when chatting about the machine she was disappointed that it would not knit with chenille, but I am not sure that is a reasonable expectation as it clearly says in the manual what is and isn’t suitable.

I experimented a little, but as my aim was to review the machine as it stands, these were quite limited. I found that the harsher/firmer the yarn, the less the machine liked it. For example, I tried some crepe yarn and although it worked, the machine was not as happy as with less tightly spun yarn, until I helped by unwinding the yarn from the ball, the machine dropped the occasional stitch. I have had reports from other users that hand knit DK cotton works really well, but have not so far tested this out. The size of the hooks dictate the thickness of the yarn. Aran is listed as the thickest, but if not sure, lay the yarn in the hook and see if it sits there comfortably without being compressed.

Things I found that helped if the machine struggled:

  • manually wind to begin with and start with slow speed until you are satisfied that all is well
  • check that the yarn is in the tension disk correctly
  • watch for the yarn ball flipping over, this will tug on the machine
  • rewind the yarn onto balls that will pull-off easily, (if the machine has to tug at the yarn it stutters)
  • waxing as you rewind can help smooth the yarn
  • manually unwind the yarn before it gets to the machine if it is sticking to itself on the ball
  • listen to the machine, you can detect problems early by a change in rythmn/note

Be thoughtful when choosing yarns

The machine has weight, so does not shift around in use, and the case seems pretty robust. I am a little concerned about the rather delicate design of on/off/speed lever, as that is your ’emergency stop’ and might need to be turned quite rapidly, but so far it feels strong enough in use. The ‘knit/purl’ dial rotates when the machine is working, and yarn might get caught on this, so keep your work space clear of odd bits of yarn. I obviously don’t know how long the machine is going to last, and my guess is that the mechanism inside is largely plastic, (but I’m not taking it apart to find out). In my experience plastic cogs, such as those in ball winders are susceptible to strain and if worn may start to slip. The needles are metal, unlike the Addi, so should give stalwart service, as long as the latches don’t get bent. The needle ‘tricks’ in which they slide in and out are also plastic, but once again, provided they do not get burred or dented, they should wear smoothly, much as those in the larger, flat, plastic bed machines. If they do get dented with a sharp edge on one side of the indentation, the needle may catch on them as it slides in and out and could cause jams, (that is the voice of experience speaking). Over-thick and fancy yarns will contribute to all these potential problems, so be thoughtful when choosing yarns.

I was provided with a machine so that I could write/film this review, but have tried to be unbiased in my opinion and when describing my experience whilst using it.

A quick peak at my latest book

On By vikkihaffendenIn book, books, craft, Creative machine knitting, creativity, Flechage, Knitted textiles, knitting, knitting books, knitting machine, knitting patterns, Machine knitting, Machine knitting; knitmaster;silver reed; knitting, making, Short-row shaping, Short-rows, Textiles, UncategorizedLeave a comment

‘The Machine Knitter’s Guide to Partial Knitting: Seamless Pattern, Shape and Form’, is available to pre-order in the UK from Crowood Books, and online retailers. In the US it can be ordered from Blackwells.

Learn how to control short rows and create fab effects with this fascinating technique.

I’ve always been fascinated by short rows, or partial knitting as this technique is also called, so when the opportunity came to write a whole book about the technique I was super excited. The book opens with some interesting information about short rows to whet the appetite, the first chapter is about the absolute basics, so is ideal for people who have not worked with short rows before. The chapters progress through the different ways of using short rows; shown with examples, diagrams and written instructions. Some also have half scale sample patterns for practising the techniques which include more advanced uses, such as 3d shaping.. There are step-by-step instructions and each chapter builds on the knowledge of the previous chapter. The book ends with a chapter of patterns exemplifying the techniques covered throughout the book.

I so look forward to receiving my first copy!

‘Wool’, a lovely yarn shop in Bath

On By vikkihaffendenIn craft, fibre, hand knitting, Knitted textiles, knitting, Textiles, UncategorizedLeave a comment

A couple of weeks ago I spent a weekend in Bath in the Somerset with some friends.

On our first day we did the touristy things like visiting the Circle and the beautiful Royal Crescent and had tea in one of the numerous teas shops. Quite by chance, the one we picked happened to have been featured in Bridgerton as the Modiste shop.

Food featured heavily in our weekend, cake being a particular favorite, so the next day we visited the historic Pulteney bridge and the tea shop which is situated on top of this bridge.

We are all knitters, so were pleased to discover there was a yarn shop close to where we were staying in the city centre. So, before leaving on our last day we paid a visit to ‘Wool’. There we found a wide selection of yarns to please all price points, that catered for all types of knitting or crochet work. Yarns included individual spun, Rowan Kid Silk and some very good value Tweedy Superwash Merino wool by King Cole. I am a bit of a sock yarn addict and bought a 100g ball of Lang sock yarn, which I have not tried before, and some 100% wool double knit in pretty pastel colours.

Someone else chose a DK pattern for a simple sweater shape which she intends to knit up in a wool and Alpaca blend yarn. The yarn is being reclaimed from a partially-knitted garment that her mother never completed, I think this is a lovely way to maintain a thread with the memory of her Mother, but to end up with a garment that she will want to wear.

The staff in the shop were particularly helpful over this explaining to my friend how to substitute a yarn in the pattern and helping her decide if she would have enough of the existing yarn. Although I could have helped her with this it would have felt a little like a busman’s holiday to do so ‘on the fly’. However I did of course tell her she could ask me later if she ran into problems.

I will certainly go back to ‘Wool’ next time I’m in Bath.

‘Single and Double Bed Machine Knitting; the Designer’s Guide’

On By vikkihaffendenIn books, clothing size, craft, Creative machine knitting, educational, Flechage, Knitted textiles, knitting, knitting machine, knitting machine maitenance, Machine knitting, Machine knitting; knitmaster;silver reed; knitting, making, Passap, Short-row shaping, Short-rows, Textiles, UncategorizedLeave a comment

The advance copy of my new book arrived today, and you can see some pages from the book here.

Meanwhile here is a quick look at the book.

I have made a more in depth video introduction to the book, and if you would like to watch this, please keep on scrolling down the page.

Knitting and Wellness

On By vikkihaffendenIn book, craft, hand knitting, Knitted textiles, knitting, making, mindfulness, TextilesLeave a comment

Today met James McIntosh and Dr Thomas Ernst, inventors of the term ‘knititation’ and authors of Knit and Nibble. They had been invited to speak at the University of Brighton School of Art’s Centre for Arts and Wellbeing event, Knitting and Wellness.

When we first met, James told me that he had found The Knitting Book really helpful when he was teaching himself to knit – which was truly gratifying feedback. It’s nice to find out how people use and value my contribution to sharing knowledge.

James was first to speak, and he described his personal journey through depression and how knitting mindfully enabled his recovery and brought colour back into his life. Thomas discussed the science behind mindfulness and it’s aptness to knitting.

Nina Dodds, author of Invisible Jumpers, and I provided yarn and needles so that everyone who wanted to could knit during the event. We were gratified that everyone took up the opportunity!

This was my piece of knitting.

It was a great talk, entertaining and interesting. James and Thomas kindly gave me a copy of their book which I am reading this weekend.

At the end Thomas led a short mindfulness session, which was a new expressive for some of the audience. Hopefully we all left feeling refreshed.

Like James, and so many others, I find hand knitting keeps me calm; it’s repetitive movements bringing my attention back in a rythmic cycle. So now I’ve written this it’s time to take up my needles for a soothing session.

Long Buckby machine knitting club talk

On By vikkihaffendenIn craft, Creative machine knitting, creativity, Knitted textiles, knitting, knitting machine, knitwear, Machine knitting, Machine knitting; knitmaster;silver reed; knitting, making, Textiles, Translating between hand and machine knitting, yarn1 Comment

Today I had a lovely day with Long Buckby Machine Knitting Club. They had asked me to come and talk about my book Translating Between Hand and Machine Knitting and gave me a wonderfully friendly welcome. This meant talking about my experiences as a machine knitter was like sharing with friends.

I met so many interesting people who have interests in common and was pleased to see some younger faces on the audience.

Janet Collins, Chair of the Knitting and Crochet Guild was there and spoke to the meeting about the recent amalgamation of the Knitting and Crochet Guild and the Guild of Machine Knitters. She also gave an impassioned plea for members to encourage younger people to become members. She told me that if the Guild is not offering what young knitters want, the way forward is to find out what they do want and make this an aim, otherwise the Guild will dwindle. As there are 1,500 members this would be a real shame.

I’m now on my way home feeling a warm glow from the kind words and the opportunity to meet genie machine knitters with so many skills.

Visit to Diamond Fibres – wool processors

On By vikkihaffendenIn British wool, craft, creativity, fibre, fibre preparation, spinning, Textiles, Uncategorized, Wool, yarn

Today I accompanied a group of students on a visit to Diamond Fibres in Horam, Sussex. The company processes wool for worsted spinning, rather than woollen spinning, so concentrates more on longer staple fleece.

Starting in the sorting shed, we were shown round by Roger, the owner, and given a really thorough introduction to the processes involved in changing raw fleece into yarn.

There was a Wensleydale fleece on the picker, which Roger explained had already been washed once at 60 degrees to remove the first lot of dirt and oil and then dried. After picking, which would open up the compressed curls that the first wash had not reached, it would be re-washed and dried before further processing. He reckoned that it may in fact require a third pick and wash.

The students were looking tired just at the thought of this!

Following picking, the next process is carding the fibres to start aligning them in parallel into a continuous ”sliver’ of fibre. Unlike my meek little hand carder, they have a carding machine with 16 drums of metal, not wire, teeth. At this stage, any short fibres will still be in the sliver, it isn’t until combing that these will be removed.

The sliver begins to look more like something that is spinnable, but there are still thin and thick sections along its length. To eliminate these and even out the sliver it goes through ‘gilling’. Diamond have two of these machines. The first one has wider spaced teeth, and is used at this point, whilst the second is much finer and bulks up and evens out the sliver later on after combing.

When the sliver goes into the gilling machine, two are fed in at once, producing one thicker sliver of uniform thickness.

The fibre will in all likelihood go through a second gilling, during which the output sliver gradually bulks up, according to the machine settings, to achieve the required grams per metre.

If the requirement is for carded roving for hand spinning, this will be the last process. It may even be stopped earlier on, depending on what condition fibre is required.

If however, the desired outcome is combed sliver, then it has to go through the combing machine. This takes up to sixteen slivers side-by-side through the combs, crimping the final sliver to compress the fibres together and prevent breakage. It looks like doll’s hair emerging from the machine. Any remaining short fibres, nepps, noils or debris fall out into a waste bin beneath the combs.

This combed sliver has become slightly uneven during the combing process, and this is when it goes through the finer gilling machine to produce a consolidated, even sliver ready to have a small amount of twist introduced, (about four turns per inch) to make a softly twisted roving.

This roving is then drafted out into a thinner roving, and finally drafted and spun into singles weighing approximately 0.2g per metre. Amount of twist can be controlled to produce softer or firmer yarns at both singles and plying stages.

The singles can be plied into 2, 3, 4 etc ply yarns according to need. 2 ply tends to be flat, 3 ply rounded, and 4 ply has a square profile. To make a cable yarn, 2 x 2ply can be twisted together.

2ply yarn made from two of the 0.2g/metre singles would weigh approximately 0.4g per metre. This would yield something like 250 metres per 100g, which is within the DK category of yarn, and will be between 12-14 WPI.

Of course, as Roger pointed out, natural fibres do not conform as precisely as synthetics do, so there are highly likely to be variations in weight to length of a hank of yarn depending on humidity and other physical conditions when it is weighed. Oh the joy of natural fibres, thats why we love them!

I think the students now really appreciate how much work goes into making the yarns they pick off the yarn-store shelf. One even went so far as to say that they would never again complain about yarn being so expensive!

“This book ought to be mandatory reading for every new machine knitter!”

On By vikkihaffendenIn book, craft, creativity, crochet, Knitted textiles, knitting, knitting machine, knitting patterns, Machine knitting, Machine knitting; knitmaster;silver reed; knitting, making, Short-row shaping, Textiles, Translating between hand and machine knitting, UncategorizedLeave a comment
I came across this review of my book, ‘Translating Between Hand and Machine Knitting’, and would like to share some of it with you.

“This book needs to be on every machine knitter’s manuals shelf, in pride of place, no matter if you use Silver Reed or Brother!”
“Where was this book when I was desperately trying to learn how to design lace/translate lace cards between Brother and Silver Reed?!?!”

This book is absolutely essential equipment as far as I am concerned!
The pictures will blow you away and they only get better.
The details are absolutely in depth and extremely easy to understand with stupendously clear focused pin-pointed and highlighted photography and exemplary diagrams that compare every aspect of stitches, fabric, mechanics, of hand and machine knitting. 
It isn’t a how-to… it compares them and shows some GREAT visuals of them on and off the needles. Refer to your manual for specifics on how-to cast-on and cast-off. Basically, this book compiled most of the answers to questions I have asked in the past, questions I have hunted down answers to, and questions that I hadn’t even thought to ask. It is utterly fantastic.
Buy it! Buy it NOW!
I can not say enough how much you need this book! How much I needed this book… now if I can just convince her to write one on Passap…
No! I have no affiliation with the author… I wish I could say I know her.’
Thank you to B. Newson on Amazon.com

 

Machine Knitting workshop, Brighton TAG

On By vikkihaffendenIn course, craft, Creative machine knitting, creativity, Flechage, Knitted textiles, knitting, knitting machine, Machine knitting, Machine knitting; knitmaster;silver reed; knitting, making, Short-rows, Textiles, WorkshopLeave a comment

Today I ran a workshop that introduced members of Brighton Textile Art Group to machine knitting. To give a wider experience both a Knitmaster and a Brother machine were used, one standard and one chunky gauge. The chunky was particularly popular once it was found that it can knit handspun yarns.

Techniques explored included shaping, fair isle, single motif fair isle, knitwear (again great for hand spun), holding and short rows and simple, manual lace transfer.

I took along a little circular machine to demonstrate the difference between the two machine types, but the real interest was in the flat bed Japanese machines.

After the workshop response were really positive; people who had thought they would hate it had great fun, and those with machines were enthused to go home and get them out. Unfortunately the workshop clashed with the East Sussex Guild of Spinners, Weavers and Dyers meeting, so another workshop had been requested in the Spring or Summer of 2020.